Master Bob Cutting with These Expert Tips

Featuring ARC™ Scissors Ambassador Ben Brown (@benbrownhair)

The perfect bob isn’t about luck — it’s about control. True mastery comes from understanding how section width, tension, and density all interact to create precision, balance, and movement.

ARC™ Scissors Ambassador Ben Brown breaks down his signature BTC University class, “The Perfect Bob,” revealing how to refine your cutting discipline and bring structure to every shape.

✂️ 1. Control Starts with Section Width

Every clean bob begins with how you section the hair — it’s the framework that determines precision.

• Why wide sections fail: Wide sections create uneven tension and cause you to lose control, especially around curved areas like the nape. The result? Inconsistent lengths and “holes” in the outline.

• Why narrow sections succeed: Working with smaller sections gives you even tension and visibility. It allows every strand to sit in its correct place, creating that crisp, balanced line that defines a true bob.

Pro Tip: At the nape, section narrowly and work methodically. This prevents over-elevation and ensures the weight line hugs the natural curve of the neck instead of fighting against it.

🎥 Watch Ben’s BTC University demo to see how minor adjustments in section width eliminate ear holes and uneven perimeters.

2. Adjust Your Tension — or You’ll Collapse the Shape

Tension determines how the hair behaves once it’s dry. Control it, and your bob holds its form; ignore it, and your line will shrink, bend, or collapse.

🔸 For thick or coarse hair

Use lower tension. Dense hair “breathes in” after cutting, so too much tension causes unwanted lift and shorter lengths once dry.

Use the wide side of your comb to reduce tension and allow the hair to settle naturally.

🔸 For fine or thin hair

Use higher tension. Fine hair needs extra control to achieve a sharp, defined perimeter.

Switch to the narrow side of your comb for greater grip and accuracy.

“Tension control changes everything,” Ben explains. “You’re not just cutting length—you’re controlling energy in the shape.”

🎥 Watch Ben’s tension tutorial on BTC University to see how small comb adjustments protect your perimeter from collapsing.

Ben’s go-to scissor: the ARC™ HARMONY II 5”

“This precision cutter has slightly convex blades,” Ben explains, “which let me create both strong, structural cuts and refined detailing. The fine, narrow tip gives me the precision I need for clean lines and intricate perimeter work.” 

Watch Ben’s quick tips on tension

3. Avoid the 3 Mistakes That Ruin a Bob’s Balance

A perfect bob lives in the harmony of section width, tension, and density control. Break one—and the whole cut falls apart.

🚫 Mistake #1: Ignoring crown growth patterns

Cowlicks or multiple growth directions near the crown can cause the hair to jump when dry. Use minimal tension in this zone so the hair falls naturally and evenly.

🚫 Mistake #2: Forgetting to adjust tension at the nape

The nape has less density and follows the curve of the neck. Lower your elevation and tension to let the hair hug the contour. Use a fine-tip precision scissor like the ARC™ HARMONY II for clean detailing.

🚫 Mistake #3: Changing tension when cross-checking

Always check the haircut using the same tension you cut with. If you switch from low to high tension while reviewing, you’ll create the illusion of unevenness even in a perfect line.

🎥 See Ben’s “Tension Mistakes to Avoid” demo on BTC University for real-time visuals of how these small errors affect balance.

The Tool That Defines Precision: ARC™ HARMONY II

True precision isn’t mass-produced — it’s crafted.

The ARC™ HARMONY II 5” is forged by hand in Seki City, Japan, from premium cobalt and VG10 steel. Each blade is refined to a true convex edge, giving stylists the glide, control, and responsiveness needed for today’s precision shapes.

• Lightweight, balanced design reduces hand fatigue.

• Convex edge delivers ultra-smooth slide and slicing.

• Fine, tapered tip perfect for perimeter and detail work.

• 100% Japanese-made craftsmanship built for longevity.

✨ Pro Offer: Use code PERFECT15 for 15% off your HARMONY II purchase.

❤️ Final Takeaway: The Perfect Bob Is About Discipline

The difference between a good bob and a great one is intention — how you section, how you hold tension, and the precision of the tool in your hand.

“When you understand why each section behaves the way it does, every bob becomes predictable—and that’s where artistry begins,” says Ben.

You’ve invested in your education, your clients, and your craft.
Now, invest in the tools that honor that commitment.

Ben’s go-to scissor: HARMONY II   Get 15% OFF with code PERFECT15