How To Balance Fringe Density, Highlight the Eyes and Reduce Weight Through the Middle

Featuring ARC™ Scissors Ambassador James Earnshaw (@jhair_stylist)

French bangs look effortless, but creating that softness around the eyes takes careful planning and deliberate cutting. The margin for error is tiny: one heavy pass and the center gets boxy, one overdirected section and the curtain collapses. Getting that effortless, eye-grazing bend is all about control—controlling density, controlling the fall and controlling exactly where the hair opens up on the face.

That’s why every detail matters here, including the tool. With its narrow precision tip, the ARC™ Scissors PARAGON II allows you to refine micro-sections cleanly without collapsing the shape. The perfectly balanced design offers controlled movement for softening the center while preserving elongation through the corners.

In this breakdown, James Earnshaw walks through the sectioning, angles and detailing patterns he uses to build a French fringe that moves, bends and grows out cleanly—no heavy centers, no disrupted length at the corners and no imbalance once the fringe settles.

Here’s the finished French bang James created, along with the reference that guided the shape:

Photo Credit: Instagram via @jhair_stylist

Tip #1: Start With a Clean Baseline to Establish Length

James begins by bringing the entire fringe section straight down in front of the face at zero elevation and makes one clean, horizontal pass to establish the baseline. This initial cut determines the overall length and becomes the guide for every angle that follows, so it needs to be steady, consistent and controlled.

Because he’s using the 7-inch model of PARAGON II, James can take this full-width section in a single, uninterrupted stroke. The longer blade gives him the reach to cut through the entire fringe without reopening and resetting, and the PARAGON II’s aggressive blade geometry delivers a true line with zero push. The ball-bearing pivot keeps the glide smooth, allowing the center to stay stable instead of collapsing.

Photo Credit: Instagram via @jhair_stylist

Tip #2: Angle the Center to Open the Fringe

After setting the baseline, James takes a small center section and cuts it on a slight diagonal—scissor tip angled upward, handle tilted toward the floor. This softens the middle and prevents a heavy block from sitting over the eyes. 

Photo Credit: Instagram via @jhair_stylist

Because angled cutting relies on the hair staying still behind the fingers, the 7-inch PARAGON II gives James extra reach and stability for this controlled pass. Its long blade allows him to cut the full subsection without re-opening the scissors, and the PARAGON II’s no-push glide keeps the hair from shifting as he works. This makes it easier to open the center cleanly while preserving the length you’ll need for the outer corners.

What to focus on:

• Adjust the angle based on density; thicker centers need a slightly flatter angle

• Work in tight passes so the center falls naturally

• Maintain even tension so the fringe doesn’t jump when dry
  

Pro Tip: Let the center fall forward between cuts. If it opens softly without splitting, the angle is right.

Tip #3: Cut the Sides Vertically to Build the Outer Edges

To create the center-short, corner-long shape, James drops the side sections to low elevation and positions his fingers so the hair creates a natural short-to-long effect toward the cheekbone. Instead of holding the scissors vertically, he point cuts on a diagonal, directing the tip of the blade into the section to gradually increase length as he moves outward. This controlled finger angle is what builds the soft, elongated corners without creating a heavy outline.

Its longer blade gives James the reach to point cut cleanly without crowding his fingers, and the razor-sharp edge enters the hair with zero push—crucial when you're controlling tiny bevel changes near the face. The streamlined, balanced handle keeps the wrist neutral at low elevation, and the ball-bearing pivot lets the blade glide effortlessly so the corners stay soft, seamless and perfectly controlled.

This is the kind of subtle, technical work where a lesser scissor starts to fight you—the PARAGON II makes it feel weightless.

Photo Credit: Instagram via @jhair_stylist

Tip #4: Elevate the Center to 90° for Softness Through the Center

After sculpting the outline, James returns to the center and takes a narrow vertical section, lifting it to 90 degrees so it sits parallel to the floor. With his fingers pointing downward, he point cuts into the section to remove any remaining weight through the middle. This light-diffusing pass softens the fall without altering the baseline you set earlier.

Why the  PARAGON II Shines Here:
Working inside a small, elevated section requires a blade that enters the hair cleanly without shifting it. The PARAGON II’s ultra-sharp edge and controlled dry-cut glide let James point cut with precision at 90 degrees without creating unintended lines or shortening the center too aggressively. The long blade also gives him the reach to work confidently in tight spaces while keeping his wrist neutral.

Photo Credit: Instagram via @jhair_stylist

Pro Tip: When refining the center, match the elevation to where the hair naturally wants to bend. Cutting above or below that point is what creates a jump in the fringe.

Tip #5: Detail Dry to Keep the Fringe Light and Movable

Once the main shape is built, James moves to dry detailing to soften the center and make sure the fringe bends naturally. He trims only the surface pieces that sit heavily or interrupt the curve. The narrow tip of the PARAGON II lets you pick up and refine single fibers or tiny veils without cutting into the interior, so you can adjust movement without losing length.

Photo Credit: Instagram via @jhair_stylist

Final Takeaway: Small Moves Make the Shape

French bangs rely on subtle choices—how you set the baseline, how you open the center, how you build the cheekbone length and how you refine the middle before detailing dry. When each step is deliberate, the fringe falls exactly where it should: soft in the center, lifted at the eyes and long through the face frame.

The ARC™ Difference

The PARAGON II supports that kind of detail-first cutting. Its blade geometry cuts without pushing, the pivot stays smooth in vertical and angled passes and the narrow tip makes surface refinement predictable instead of risky.

Why stylists reach for the PARAGON II:

• Glides through tension-heavy sections without shifting the hair

• Stays sharp through repeated dry work for clean micro-adjustments

• The narrow tip makes isolating tiny sections easy

• Balanced design keeps the hand steady in vertical cutting

Cutting a modern French fringe requires a tool that keeps every pass controlled.

Explore the ARC™ Scissors PARAGON II and see why stylists use it for detailed fringe work.