Why an Undercut Is the Key to Perfect Blunt Bobs on Thick Hair

For clients with very dense hair, a classic one-length bob can collapse, mushroom or read overly heavy at the perimeter. That’s where a discreet undercut becomes your tool, not a trend statement. 

By removing bulk from the nape to just above the occipital, you create a controllable foundation so the bob sits sleek, maintains a true outline and moves. Below, find UK-based cutting expert and ARC Scissors Ambassador Jack Mead’s (@jackmead_stylist) approach to deliver a one-length bob with invisible support: undercut, plus light internal layering for a round, fluid finish.

 

Photo Credit: Instagram via @jackmead_stylist

 

When Should I Consider Adding an Undercut to a Bob?

For the clients with very thick, dense hair, Jack recommends an undercut paired with a durable scissor that can handle thick textures, like ARC™ Scissors PARAGON II.

 

Jack explains, "An undercut can be scary, but it can also be a fantastic tool when you have really thick hair. The reason for this is that thinning the hair with texturising scissors can cause unwanted frizz and, in some cases, can actually cause more volume as the short hair pushes against the longer hairs." 

 

• Density: High to very high; hair that feels “too much” in the nape.
  

• Texture: Straight to wavy (coarse or medium).
  

• Head shape/growth: Strong nape growth, heavy crown fall or perimeter bulk.

• Client goal: Clean bob silhouette that stays sleek without daily debulking.
  

 

Why does Jack use the ARC™ Scissors PARAGON II for this look?

Long, durable blades = fewer passes on dense hair. Jack relies on the PARAGON II to handle every stage of this cut, from the wet one-length foundation to the dry refinement phase, because it performs like two scissors in one: a precision line cutter and a refining dry-cutter.

Quick Consultation Script: How To Suggest an Undercut for Bob Clients

Here's an example script for the next time you need to utilize an undercut:

 

“Because your hair is very dense at the nape, I’ll create a hidden undercut to remove bulk. I’ll cut the bob one length for a clean outline, then add subtle internal layers so it moves and doesn’t hug your head. You’ll get a sleek shape that styles fast and stays light.”

Step-by-Step: Jack Mead’s Thick-Hair Blunt Bob Tutorial

For his client Charlotte, who has thick silver hair, Jack begins by shaving an undercut from the nape up to just above the occipital bone. “Charlotte has beautiful, thick silver hair, so I always cut half of it off in that undercut,” he shares, adding that, “Believe it or not, you can’t see [the undercut] when the hair is all dried”. It immediately removes excess weight, setting up a more manageable foundation.

 

 

Working wet, Jack releases section by section, cutting at zero elevation to maintain that crisp, one-length line. The PARAGON II’s long, powerful blades make clean work of the dense hair, keeping the perimeter balanced.

 

He adds subtle shaping around the face, connecting shorter fringe pieces into the sides with slide cutting, which the PARAGON II accomplishes with ease. This softens the edges and opens up the face, a perfect touch for anyone wanting movement in their bob.

 

Once dried, Jack elevates sections to 90 degrees and point cuts with the PARAGON II, creating slight layering. “It’s pretty much one length with a slight layer that just gives you that beautiful round shape and adds a little bit of texture into the hair so it moves freely without being stuck to the head," he shares.

 

Loved By Your Favorite Hair Pros: Use Code UNDERCUT15 To Get 15% OFF the PARAGON II!

 

 

Finally, he refines with channel cutting, removing more internal bulk. Even though half of Charlotte’s hair was shaved off, her bob still appears full, stylish, and super easy to maintain.

 

The Result: A seamless one-length bob made weightless with a hidden undercut

Photo Credit: Instagram via @jackmead_stylist

 

Clean lines, effortless movement—thanks to an undercut you’ll never see:

Photo Credit: Instagram via @jackmead_stylist

 

When you’re working on dense, heavy textures, especially in a bob with an undercut, your scissors must deliver both power and control. The PARAGON II is engineered to do exactly that: long, lightweight blades glide through thick sections effortlessly, yet are slim enough for intricate detailing, face-framing and internal texturizing.

 

 Your next-level bob starts with the right blade—get 15% off the PARAGON II with code UNDERCUT15!

 

The PARAGON II is the professional’s go-to when balancing structure and softness in precision shapes like bobs. Its balanced weight, razor-sharp edge and slender body allow stylists to:

• Maintain a crisp, one-length perimeter without push or drag
  
  

• Transition seamlessly from wet to dry work
  
  

• Refine thick hair with invisible weight removal and fluid motion
  
  

• Execute channel cutting and point detailing with fingertip accuracy