If there’s one reference clients can’t stop showing stylists right now, it’s the supermodel bob. Think Christy Turlington in the ’90s: sleek, full, and perfectly beveled. This modern revival of the luxe, swishy bob is all about clean structure, effortless movement, and that “expensive” finish that turns heads the moment it swings.

And while the length and shape are deceptively simple, achieving that refined balance of fullness and fluidity takes the right technique, and the right tools. Below, ARC™ Artists share their must-know cutting and styling secrets for creating the season’s most in-demand haircut.

Here’s a cheat sheet of the elements of a ’90s bob:

• Strong Shape: The signature strong shape makes the hair appear fuller, combined with a soft blunt perimeter and intentional texturizing to bring a soft, airy feel to the cut. 
• Personalize: Add flair with dramatic side parts, middle parts or paired with fringe. 
• Length: Whether jaw-skimming or hitting above the collar bone, this cut elongates the neck for a naturally elegant look.
• Beveled Styling: Creating the cut is half the battle. Styling and creating the bend is key to enhancing the signature bevel that truly establishes the look without losing volume at the crown.

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The Key Points You Must Know:

• Weight removal is your best friend: How To Avoid A Bulky Bob
• How to approach this look with texture: 5 Tips for Cutting Bobs on Textured Hair
• Celebrity references: How To Recreate Hailey Bieber’s Preppy, Contoured Bob
  
• Building volume on fine hair: 3 Genius Cheats to Make Bobs Appear Fuller

Avoiding the Bell Shape: 3 Tips To Remove Bulk

The line between this elegant cut and something a bit more Lord Farquaad-inspired is fine. Thankfully, ARC™ Scissors Artistic Team Member Chris Jones (@chrisjones_hair) knows exactly what to do to remove unwanted bulk. 

1. Create an undercut:

“Sometimes when the hair is so thick the best way to remove bulk is by doing an undercut,” advises Chris. To do so, he will section off the hair above the nape and remove weight near the hairline:

Photo Credit: Instagram via @chrisjones_hair

Pro Tip: A sharp shear is important to create the blunt outline that supports the strong shape of this look. That’s why Chris uses ARC™ Scissors PARAGON II: “They are my go-to scissor I can use on wet or dry hair, are perfectly balanced and stay sharp for months,” says Chris. “The design of these shears is much more streamlined and efficient compared to the bulky size of other dry cutters.”

2. Utilize an internal layering technique:

Want to know Colorado salon owner and ARC™ Scissors Ambassador Ray Hornback’s (@rayvoltagebeauty) secret to removing weight? Undercutting combined with internal layering: “To avoid the bell shape, I typically create an undercut and utilize internal layering to reduce the right amount of bulk to help the cut remain blunt looking.” This will help combat a bulky perimeter as well as add movement.

Photo Credit: Instagram via @rayvoltagebeauty

SCISSOR USED: “ARC™ Scissors PARAGON II 6” is the perfect tool to cut deeply into the hair without any snags,” Ray shares—click here to add the PARAGON II to your kit!

Learn from #ONESHOT Winner @chrisjones_hair on BTC University:

• Get Chris’ signature cutting technique for flawless square layers
• Learn how to select the right texturizing technique AND tools
• Why cutting lobs dry will be a game-changer for your career
• Click here to watch!

Creating The Beveled Look: Blowout & Roller Tips

In the case of a ’90s bob, cutting is only half of the battle—bring out the blow-dryer, rollers and lightweight styling products for soft hold for a beveled finish. Not only will this achieve that ’90s volume at the crown with movement through the ends, but also convince your bob clientele that roller-sets aren’t reserved only for long layers.