When a thick-haired client requests a lob, it’s because she wants a lightweight cut with lots of movement. That means you need to find a way to remove the excess weight without losing too much length. Below, we’re breaking down three bulk-removing techniques from @shmeggsandbaconn that can help you do just that. PLUS, she shares how to adjust two of the techniques for fine-haired clients. So keep reading for the deets!
Technique 1: Point Cutting
This is the most common method for removing extra weight from the ends because it results in a lived-in cut that is extremely pliable and easy to manipulate. Using the ARC™ Scissors PHANTOM 7″ shear, elevate a 2- to 3-inch section away from the head and point cut parallel to the hair, opening and closing the scissor to remove bulk. "These shears are great for point cutting because they don't pull or snag on the hair when cutting."
If you want even softer texture…
Megan says try performing the above technique with the ARC™ Scissors SYMMETRY 10/10 Reversible Texturizer. This pair will remove extra weight at a more conservative rate and is great for when you need to remove a little bit of bulk on normal to fine hair but still want to maintain a blunt line.
Technique 2: Slide Cutting
This is a great way to create layers and add movement without removing length. Start by taking a 2- to 3-inch section. Then, keep the scissors partially open (about 45 degrees) and insert them inside the section with the tip pointing toward the ends. Slice through the hair, leaving about ¼ an inch of space in between each slice.
If you want to add some movement to thin hair…
Again, opt for the SYMMETRY 10/10 Reversible Texturizer. Start about 2 to 3 inches away from the ends, slice through the hair and avoid the area where it starts to thin. “The key is to add movement just above where the ends begin to thin out,” shares Megan.
Technique 3: Internal Layering
Internal layering, or what Megan likes to call hidden layers, is one of her fave techniques for the blunt bob/lob shape because it adds movement and volume without taking away from the strong perimeter. They may appear drastic compared to the rest of the length, but since the layers are hidden inside the hair we promise your client won’t notice them.
To create internal layers…
Take vertical or horizontal sections, hold them out at a 90 degree angle and then “chip away” (cut small sections of hair near the midshaft) where weight needs to be removed. Just be sure to cut at an angle to avoid creating hard lines. For this technique, Megan uses her ARC™ Scissors PHANTOM 7″ shear because the sharp tip is precise and allows her to remove hair with control.