Curly Cutting 101 With A Curl Expert
Have a curly client that loves her curls? Want to know the best way to cut and style natural curls without damaging them? We got you! Curl master Evan Joseph (@evanjosephcurls) stopped by The BTC House in West Hollywood to spill his secrets for servicing clients with curly hair. Scroll down to get in the know and click here to purchase Evan’s entire curly cutting essentials class on BTC University.
Cut With The Curl
The most important thing to remember when cutting a curly client is to embrace the curl. Evan suggests these cutting tips to ensure curls won’t be disrupted.
- Have the client come in for their appointment with the hairstyle they wear on a daily basis and cut the hair in its natural state. Curls are not uniform, so straightening the hair will create unpredictable results when the hair is worn naturally.
- Start at the top: Curls at the top can be heavy and manipulate how the bottom section looks. Beginning the haircut at the top of the head will debulk and remove weight, allowing for more control when cutting the bottom and a better view of how the overall cut will look.
- Curls are made up of alternating “C” shapes, some small and some large. Evan suggests cutting the hair in the curve of the bigger “C.” This will keep the integrity of the client’s curl pattern and help the ends to remain frizz free.
- When cutting curly hair in its natural state, Evan recommends using a very sharp shear. Cutting curls with sharp shear will maintain the curl’s integrity and won’t bend or split the curl after it has been cut. Evan prefers the ARC™ Scissors Designer Phantom Scissor in both 6″ and 7″ to cut curly hair.
- “I love the Arc shears because they are hand-adjustable and I don’t need an attachment to adjust them. ” Evan explains. Since tension is adjusted depending on the client’s curl pattern having a shear that can be adjusted on a daily basis without an attachment is essential.
Not all curl products are created equal, Evan gave some insight on which products to avoid:
- Lathering shampoos that contain silicone or sulfates. These ingredients will dry out curls and weaken the hair over time. Instead, look for products that contain Cetearyl Alcohol, an emulsifying agent that cleanses the scalp and retains moisture.
- DIY Oils and/or butters. Curls need to be able to absorb water to maintain their moisture. So it is really important to use professional hair products and not DIY products made with oils and butters found in food. These ingredients will coat the hair and block any water or condition from penetrating the cuticle.
Drying and Diffusing
A little misconception about diffusing curls: having the client bend upside down during their blow-dry isn’t the best way to achieve volume. This will result in volume in front, but flatness in the back and at the crown. Instead, have the client bend sideways in the chair and diffuse, switching to the other side for an even dry. Then, diffuse the back normally, this will result in even volume throughout.