With our favorite celebrities sporting shorter cuts (we see you Charlize Theron), bobs are the “it” haircut this year and we are here for it! Want to give clients a fresh chop? We had BTC Team Member and Bob Queen Carolynn Judd (@styled_by_carolynn) bring her bob expertise to The BTC House. She broke down her signature A-line bob haircuts and helped fix some common bob cutting mistakes. She even showed off two SERIOUS hair transformations! Scroll down to get Carolynn’s fixes for each mishap!
Problem: Bob Line Isn’t Straight or Is Jagged
Solution: Sharper Shears
Struggling to achieve a straight line, or experiencing jagged results? And are you cutting and cutting to fix it…only to realize it’s shorter than the client wanted? The problem could be the sharpness of the shears. Since a bob is a structured haircut, Carolynn suggests using shears that are extremely sharp and will stay sharp throughout the service.
For this cut, Carolynn used the Phantom II 6” Scissor from ARC™ Scissors because they are light weight, extremely sharp and a great all-around tool for wet, dry and point cutting.
Cutting Bobs With Phantom II Scissors:
For soft yet structured cuts like an a-line bob, you need controlled precision without too much weight removal. Carolynn uses the Phantom II 6" to cut bobs because the razor-sharp blades move seamlessly through wet or dry cuts, maintaining precision lines and smooth cuts.
Pro Tip: There is a delicate balance of needing uniformity and movement when cutting bobs. Be sure you are using tools that allow you to create the shaping you need where you need it without having to manipulate your techniques.
Problem: A-Line Bob Angle Is Unnoticeable
Solution: Alter The Sections
Clients requesting A-line bobs want that angle to be noticeable, but if if you are struggling to achieve the A-line, the fix is in the partings. Before cutting, Carolynn suggests parting the hair into quadrants: two in the front and two in the back.
To ensure there is enough hair in the front for a noticeable angle, place the front partings behind the client’s ear to give more hair to work with when cutting.
Problem: Flat Spots or Holes
Solution: Avoid Cutting The Interior
If there is a hole or flat spot after cutting a section, you may have cut too much from the interior. Carolynn suggests bringing the section out at an angle and using the comb as a guide.
Then, leave a little bit of length in the section when cutting to give some insurance. Once the section falls and doesn’t show any holes, go back in and clean it up so it is balanced with the rest of the layers.
Problem: Uneven Perimeter At the Ear
Solution: Use the Comb to Create A Bevel
If a client has ears that stick out a bit or there is a hole in the section at the ear after cutting, Carolynn suggests using the comb to create a small bevel above the ear. Comb the section out so that the hair is smooth and even. Then, use the comb and notch the hair right above the ear.
This will ensure that there is enough hair at the perimeter so that the line isn’t cut too short. When the hair is dry, go back into the section and detail the hair so it blends with the rest of the haircut.
Problem: Back and Side Sections are Disconnected
Solution: Rotate Your Hand
Remember, a bob is all about the structure, so disconnected sections can be extra noticeable. If you’re having trouble connecting the side sections to the back, Carolynn suggests rotating your palm when over-directing. Comb the side section straight and smooth then bring the section into your fingers and over-direct the section to the back. Once the section is over-directed, rotate the section so that your palm is facing you.
“Let the hair fall out, that’s okay,” Carolynn explains. “If you’re nervous, cut the hair a little longer until you can see the angle, then go back in and clean up the line once the sections are connected.”